Sunday, 21 February 2010


There was nothing remarkably new about what was shown by Bora Aksu this afternoon, tried and tested staples such as leggings, exposed zips, tulip skirts and an emphasis on the shoulder were the core of this young designers AW10 collection; however, this is no bad thing. Showcasing with great aplomb his remarkable ability to tailor to perfection, this collection was a spectacular example of unlikely juxtapositions such as hard lines and pastel chiffons working together beautifully. Very much a continuation from his SS10 show, one could be forgiven for mistaking the first half of the collection as summer wear, yet with the cool pastels soon making way for rich bronze’s synonymous with party season and eventually landing firmly in the winter territory of black, it was evident this line is as trans-seasonal as it is wearable. It is clear why Bora Aksu has received so much acclaim since his graduation from Saint Martin’s, and his unfaltering dedication to emphasis on the female form makes his collections simultaneously desirable and flattering – a rare feat these days. With shoulders adorned with delicate blossom-like ruffles, and bodices intricately detailed with contrasting piping snaking in the illusion of a waspish waist, it is easy to see why Dolce and Gabbana purchased pieces of his collection for inspiration all those years ago. Aksu yet again manages to incorporate the demurest elements of femininity with the most businesslike cuts, and top it all off with a fine bow at the neckline; simply, yet complexly, gorgeous.

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